recent posts
The Memory of Food
Date: Oct. 25th 2007
Category: Cookbooks, Cookies and Bars, Flavour of the Month, Italian Sweets
Email This
|
Add to del.icio.us
I sometimes find myself looking at the calendar in astonishment after I realize how quickly the months slip by. Is it really two months until Christmas?
And is October really almost over (already) without my having written once about my Flavour of the Month, Father Giuseppe Orsini’s Italian Baking Secrets?
Of course I’ve mentioned this cookbook a few times already, but I have yet to actually tell you about it.
Who is Father Giuseppe Orsini? Based on what I can gather from the biographical information in the book, he’s a Roman Catholic priest who has an enormous passion for baking and in particular for Italian baking.
Italian Baking Secrets is a collection of all those handwritten recipes you find stashed away in tins or tucked into books. The book is straightforward and charming in its simplicity. While there are some bread recipes towards the beginning of the book that required multiple steps, most of the recipes are ones that I could imagine my grandmothers making. Just a few ingredients and there you go, the perfect cake or the perfect cookie to dunk in your coffee.
I bought the book after seeing it on a shelf at Toronto’s The Cookbook Store. I didn’t take any time to read through it I just picked it up and walked immediately to the cash register.
Had I actually spent some time looking through the book, I would have noticed a few inconsistencies. For some reason there are a few recipes that are repeated in different sections of the book. And the measurement units used for ingredients are not always consistent. But these minor peculiarities somehow add to the book’s overall effect. It really is like those handwritten recipes scribbled onto bits of paper!
One of the recipes in the book that caught my eye was a recipe for cookies called crumiri. If I close my eyes, I can almost see my little self sitting at a table at my aunt’s house in Italy having breakfast. Our breakfasts in Italy, especially as children, didn’t consist of oatmeal or cereal, but rather huge mugs of hot milk coloured with espresso. Those mugs were accompanied by cookies or bread onto which we would spread butter and homemade jam.
That was breakfast.
My favourite, of course, were the cookies. I remember they’d come in these colourful bags and I would love to read the story of the cookies printed on each package. For some reason, the ones I remember the most are the crumiri.
In my memory, they are golden and crumbly with a not-too-sweet flavour. They taste of vanilla too. But most of all, I remember their shape and texture. The adults around me would say that they are shaped like horseshoes but to me they look like little boomerangs with ridges on them.
In my memory, I wonder what would happen if I actually threw one across the room. Would it boomerang back? But of course I would never do this as I can just imagine the stern look on the face of my aunt …
Memory is an incredible thing. In the wake of my 34th birthday, I laugh at how often my friends and I will joke that our memories are “going”. I will forget grocery lists, what I told my brother yesterday, that 10:00 meeting and my keys.
And yet, I will see a recipe for a cookie and remember the exact texture of that very same cookie when I ate one years and years ago.
I can still remember the taste.
Hard on the heels of that memory, is the realization that I suppose it doesn’t really matter that I sometimes forget the grocery list.
But to forget the memory of my little self eating cookies and slurping warm milk under my aunt’s watchful eye, somehow, that would be unbearable.
Ciao!
Crumiri
From Italian Baking Secrets by Father Giuseppe Orsini.1-3/4 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 cup sugar (I like to use vanilla sugar)
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tbsp. vanilla or almond extract (if you’re not using vanilla sugar)
2/3 cup fine yellow cornmealLine two baking sheets with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, using a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar for about 5 minutes. The mixture should be very light in colour.
Add the eggs, one at a time, scraping the bowl after each addition.
Mix together the flour, salt and cornmeal and add slowly to the butter mixture, with the motor running on low speed. As soon as the flour mixture is added, add the extract (if using).
The cookie dough will be thick. Spoon into a piping bag fitted with a star-shaped tip (3/4 of an inch to an inch in width).
Pipe the cookies onto the prepared baking sheets in whatever design you like. The cookies shouldn’t be longer than 3 or 4 inches and should be spaced 2 inches apart.
Bake until the cookies are golden around the edges, anywhere from 12 to 14 minutes.
Let cool on a wire rack.
Enjoy!
Technorati tags:
crumiri
36 Comments
Post a Comment
extras
February 2010
Valvona & Crolla: A Year at an Italian Table by Mary Contini.

Have you ever read a cookbook that brings tears to your eyes? Tears of joy for all the beautiful food in the world that can be made. That would be this book. Love it.
Categories
- 2006 FIFA World Cup
- 2006 Winter Olympics
- Antipasti
- Baking Class
- Beans and Legumes
- Beverages
- Bread
- Brunch
- Cakes, Cheesecakes, Cupcakes and Muffins
- Canada
- Canadian Blogging By Post
- Chocolate
- Choux Pastry
- Christmas
- Coconut
- Comfort Food
- Cookbooks
- Cookies and Bars
- Cooking Italy
- Dairy
- Daring Bakers
- Dessert and Pastry
- Drinks
- Events
- Fish and Seafood
- Flavour of the Month
- Food Blog Awards
- Food of Piemonte
- Fruit
- Gnocchi, Pasta, Pizza and Rice
- Ice Cream
- Italian Sweets
- La Festa al Fresco
- Lemon
- Magazine Mondays
- Meat and Poultry
- MEMEs
- News
- Panini, Sandwiches and Tramezzini
- Pies and Tarts
- Potlucks
- Preserves
- Salads and Dressings
- Soup
- Sugar High Fridays
- Sweet Snacks
- The Daring Bakers
- The Daring Cooks
- The Travelling Cream Puff
- Treasured Family Recipes
- Uncategorized
- Vegetables
- Weblogs
More Links
- Alpineberry
- Caramels, Bonbons et Chocolats
- The Canadian Baker
- Confessions of a Cardamom Addict
- Cherry's English Kitchen
- Cupcake Bakeshop
- It's My Life
- Tip of the Iceberg
- DavidLebovitz.com
- Dessert First
- Eating Suburbia
- Egg Hunt
- Exploring The Silver Spoon
- A Finger in Every Pie
- Fiordizucca
- Food Porn Watch
- Humble Pie
- Gluten-Free Goddess
- Hungry In Hogtown
- Jellypress
- Jumbo Empanadas
- A Veggie Venture
- Kochtopf
- Le Moulin
- Make Life Sweeter!
- Living Venice … and Beyond
- Italian Cooking Recipes
- Foodisgood
- Joonbug.com (New York)
- Once Upon A Feast
- P.A. Moed
- Pinch My Salt
- Posie Gets Cozy
- Rubber Slippers in Italy
- Scrumptious Street
- Seven Spoons
- Still Life With
- Sweet Pleasure: Plaisir Sucré
- Tales From Pixie Wood
- The Flying Apple
- The Second Helping House
- My Kitchen in Half Cups
- Winosandfoodies
- Winter Skies, Kitchen Aglow
- 101 Cookbooks
- A Blithe Palate
- ACE Bakery
- A La Cuisine!
- All Recipes
- All Things Edible
- Scones, Muffins, and Tea Cakes
- Trattoria Cooking
- Dip It!
- Panini, Bruschetta, Crostini
- Chez Panisse Vegetables
- Perfect Cakes
- Chez Panisse Fruit
- Italy in Small Bites
- Marcella Says
- Once Upon a Tart
- The Cook and the Gardener
- The Weekend Baker
- Chez Panisse Desserts
- Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking
- The Good Cookie
- Lorenza's Pasta
- The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook
- Barefoot Contessa Parties!
- The Babbo Cookbook
- Rustico
- Barefoot Contessa Family Style
- The Complete Book of Baking
- How to Be a Domestic Goddess
- An Alphabet of Sweets
- Death By Chocolate Cookies
- Canadian Living Cooks Step By Step
- Breads from the La Brea Bakery
- The Art of Eating Well
- On Food and Cooking
- The Pie and Pastry Bible
- The All New, All Purpose Joy of Cooking
- The Magnolia Bakery Cookbook
- The Cake Bible
- Baking with Julia
- Italy Al Dente
- The Food of Italy
- The Silver Spoon
- Celebration Breads
- Williams-Sonoma Collection: Dessert
- More From Magnolia
- Paris Sweets
- Pure Chocolate
- Cheesecakes
- Biscotti
- Sweet Miniatures
- Afternoon Delights
- Luscious Chocolate Desserts
- A Beautiful Bowl of Soup
- The Simple Art of Perfect Baking
- Essentials of Baking
- The King Arthur Flour Baker's Companion
- The King Arthur Flour Cookie Companion
- Easiest and Best Coffee Cakes and Quick Breads
- Out to Brunch
- Barefoot in Paris
- Everyday Italian
- Wanda's Pie in the Sky
- For the Love of Soup
- Truly Madly Pasta
- The ACE Bakery Cookbook
- Salad Dressing 101
- Biscuit Bliss
- Party Nuts!
- French Farmhouse Cookbook
- Fagioli
- Avventura
- Bittersweet
- Home Baking
- Bread Made Easy
- Soffritto
- Pasta!
- Caprial's Desserts
- The Great Chocolate Book
- Truffles, Candies, and Confections
- The Donut Book
- Risotto
- Bread
- Brunch
- Buonissimo!
- Recipes from an Italian Terrace
- A Passion for Chocolate
- Basic Italian
- Simple Italian Sandwiches
- Mediterranean Street Food
- The French Market
- Patricia Wells' Trattoria
- The Italian Baker
- A Thousand Days in Venice
- Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home
- The Zuni Cafe Cookbook
- All About Braising
- Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating
- The Cake Book
- Kaffeehaus: Exquisite Desserts from the Classic Cafés of Vienna, Budapest, and Prague
- Larousse Gastronomique
- Baking: From My Home to Yours
- The Chef's Table
- Chez Panisse Pasta, Pizza, Calzone
- Rose's Christmas Cookies
- A Passion for Piedmont
- The Buttercup Bake Shop Cookbook
- Williams-Sonoma Collection: Cake
- Italian Farmhouse Cookbook
- The New Food Lover's Companion
- Pizza (Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Library)
- Luscious Lemon Desserts
- A Passion for Desserts
- Caramel
- Delicious Dips
- Luscious Berry Desserts
- The San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market Cookbook
- Cupcakes!
- A Passion for Ice Cream
- Coffee Cakes
- A Sweet Quartet
- Sunday Suppers at Lucques
- Kitchen Sense
- Cheese: A Connoisseur's Guide to the World's Best
- Wing It!
- Beautiful Breads and Fabulous Fillings
- The Best Quick Breads
- Iced Tea
- Artisan Baking
- Bread for Breakfast
- The Cheese Board: Collective Works
- Les Halles Cookbook
- Simple Soirees
- Twelve: A Tuscan Cook Book
- The Handmade Loaf
- Al Forno
- Italian Vegetables
- Meze
- The Lost Art of Baking With Yeast: Delicious Hungarian Cakes & Pastries
- BakerBites
- Baking and Books
- La Tartine Gourmande
- Becks & Posh
- BetterBaking.com
- The Candied Quince
- Cottage Chic Living by Cherry Menlove
- Chez Pim
- Chocolate & Zucchini
- Chocolatier
- The Cookbook Store
- Cooking.com
- Cook's Illustrated
- La Cucina Italiana On Line
- Cucina Testa Rossa
- De Arte Coquinaria
- Delicious Cafe
- Delicious Days
- Epicurious
- Flickr
- Food & Wine
- Foodbeam
- Foodieblogs.net
- FoodieView
- Food for Thought - A Foodtv.ca blog
- From the Branches of an Olive Tree
- Geneve's Kitchen
- Golda's Kitchen
- Il Forno
- International Recipes
- Is My Blog Burning?
- ItalianMade.com
- Joy Of Cooking
- Our Adventures in Japan
- Kitchen Connaisseur
- La Toile Maison
- Leite's Culinaria
- Lidia's Italy
- Lori Longbotham
- Lucullian Delights
- Do You Know The Muffin Man?
- Market Hall Foods
- Living in Florence
- Michaelaram.com
- Monika Korngut's Delicious Living
- An Obsession with Food
- Orangette
- Pastry Arts and Design
- Pastry Chef Central
- Real Baking with Rose Levy Beranbaum
- The Republic of Tea
- ReTorte
- Rustico Cooking
- Saveur
- Simply Recipes
- Slashfood
- Taste T.O.
- The Cooking Adventures of Chef Paz
- The Perfect Pantry
- Tomato_Kumato
- The Traveler's Lunchbox
- The Vanilla.COMpany
- Vinography
- The Wednesday Chef














10/25/07 at 8:13 pm
I was touched by your childhood story Ivonne…indeed it would be a huge loss if we started loosing our childhood memories.
10/25/07 at 8:31 pm
Food is a powerful thing. I have so many memories linked with food, taste, smell and feeling. I liked your story - cookies for breakfast what a great breakfast! These cookies sound delicious. Wendy
10/25/07 at 8:41 pm
Another cookbook feeding the addiction. Everybody should have childhood memories like that Ivonnie. Maybe I’ll stop worrying about forgetting the grocery list.
10/25/07 at 10:16 pm
Ivonne ~ I didn’t eat anything so different as these when I was a kid, but I am in complete agreement about wishing some things (like food) to stay in the memory longer than others. Last night my mother made a cheesecake, just like she used to when I was a kid. I had flashbacks the entire time I ate the cheesecake. It was quite moving, actually, since so much has changed and passed since then. It certainly attests to the power of food.
10/25/07 at 10:22 pm
[…] Read the rest of this great post here […]
10/25/07 at 10:30 pm
How lovely those cookies look. There’s another cookie I loved when in Tuscany–made from polenta flour, I think –with a somewhat similar shape. I ate bags and bags of them.
10/26/07 at 2:00 am
Funny how strongly memories and food are intertwined. What a great aunt to serve you cookies for breakfast, they look delicious! The more you mention Father Guiseppe’s book the more I want it…
10/26/07 at 6:55 am
When on vacation I can even remember 10 years ago what was on the menu. Food can make or break a vacation for me. As a child I remember home baked bread and potato fritters from my dad hands and wonderful cherry pies fom my moms. What a wonderful find in Father Guiseppe’s cookbook. It sounds like a treasure!
10/26/07 at 8:28 am
I love all your memories Ivonne…you share them so beautifully! I’m glad you still remember this cookie - it looks so lovely and perfect for teatime (or milk!)
10/26/07 at 8:59 am
Foods that bring back memories are the best kinds of foods!!
10/26/07 at 9:08 am
Hot milk with a little touch of espresso!!! What a great memory as a child!! I must give that a try with my Grand Daughter!! The Crumiri look scrumptious!!!!!
10/26/07 at 9:24 am
I love this post! Very very nice Ivonne!
It’s funny. My mom bought these chocolate fudge cookies the other day. They were the same brand of chocolate fudge cookies her mother used to buy almost all of my mother’s life. She bought them to remember and the minute I saw them, memories flooded back even for me of visits to my grandmother’s house when I was a realllly little girl. She would serve these cookies. My mom and I agreed the cookies had changed and they weren’t as good as they were back then.
10/26/07 at 9:32 am
[…] admin placed an observative post today on The Memory of Food.Here’s a quick excerpt:Italian Baking Secrets is a collection of all those handwritten recipes you find stashed away in tins or tucked into books. The book is straightforward and charming in its simplicity. While there are some bread recipes towards the … […]
10/26/07 at 10:09 am
Yes, I remember our breakfast as kids. Warm milk with a shot of coffee. And we would dunk a cookie in it. That was breakfast then, and that is still breakfast now (only it’s straight coffee from my mocha maker)..thanks for the post Ivonne.
10/26/07 at 11:56 am
Another recipe tagged! Keep them comming.
Pictures are great, too.
10/26/07 at 2:39 pm
such a lovely story to share with us, Ivonne - I too believe that memory is a very powerful thing, and something that NEEDS to be preserved/used well. these crumiri cookies are so beautifully executed, it’s no wonder why you love them so much! :0)
10/26/07 at 4:50 pm
what a beautiful memory! and Happy Birthday!
10/26/07 at 10:12 pm
Food and memory. I love how this keeps coming up again and again. It’s so visceral, isn’t it? I still remember your telling me about cream puffs in Venice…
10/26/07 at 11:03 pm
[…] Read the rest of this great post here […]
10/27/07 at 4:24 am
I think that smells and tastes create some of my strongest memories. That being true I would say that some of my favourite experiences and memories have included things to do with food.
10/27/07 at 10:54 am
Love this post! It would make a perfect entry for our Apples & Thyme event. Will you consider it?
These cookies are so simple and seem to be found with little variation in many countries. My Swedish family made these at the holidays, without the cornmeal.
10/27/07 at 11:49 am
I crumiriiiiiiiiiiiiiiii………… buonissimi e che belli i tuoi!
Ciao.
10/27/07 at 12:46 pm
I think tastes and smells are the strongest memories. I can walk down a street, smell someone’s dinner cooking and be transported back in time in an instant…. then I snap out of it and realize I forgot where I was going…sigh…
10/27/07 at 1:20 pm
What a beautiful post! Your description of your memory was so lovely I felt like I was sitting right at that table with you! Now I need a cookie, hehehe.
10/27/07 at 2:47 pm
Food memories are so powerful. My fondest memories of my grandmother revolve around her kitchen, and her food. I hope I’m creating memories like that for my family, too.
10/27/07 at 6:29 pm
You’re remembering all the best bits though, Ivonne! If there’s one thing worth keeping hold of, it’s cookies, right?
10/28/07 at 2:34 pm
Ivonne,
Beautiful site! I love the cookies and can’t wait to try them. I’ve had such fun looking through your archives, quite inspiring!
10/28/07 at 5:25 pm
I can’t wait to try these! We just made your apple pie and did a little post….it was fantastic!
10/29/07 at 1:15 pm
I think a breakfast of cookies and milk with coffee is as close to heaven as you can be early in the morning. I have given up on many things when moving to the US, but not cookies. By the way, I brought back a bag of Krumiri Bistefani from my recent trip to Italy and also some Osvego Gentilini. This is a dangerous topic for me, so let me stop here and now. Wonderful job, as always.
11/1/07 at 1:10 pm
I have a question - when I went to Venice last summer, I bought cookies similiar to these in a bakery. They were bright yellow, a bit hard, and not that sweet. Some were in the shape of rings and some had chocolate chips in that. Ive been regretting not writing the name of the cookie down, because I’ve been craving it! Does anyone know what I’m talking about? They were sold in bags all over Venice.
Thanks!
11/2/07 at 1:07 pm
What a touching post. That’s one of my favorite things about food. Smell, to me, is the most nostalgic sense, and so much of tasting is smelling. I was with friends at the French Laundry last week and of all the excellent courses, the one that actually brought me close to tears was an endive with orange and onion that tasted exactly like the best holiday relish I’d had as a kid growing up in New England. It was impeccably prepared, totally simple, and delicious.
Also, these cookies look great!
01/15/08 at 1:24 pm
I just linked over from Clotilde’s post.
I fondly remember this was my mom’s special christmas cookie, but she dipped the tips in chocolate and then crushed walnuts or almond. We knew the season was upon us when these arrived!
01/17/08 at 10:14 am
[…] refers to a recipe for crumiri posted at Cream Puffs in Venice. That recipe was excerpted from Italian Baking Secrets by Father Giuseppe […]
01/17/08 at 5:06 pm
[…] these are scrumptious. Take it from me — or take notice of cornmeal cookies popping up all overtheplace. (That last link is where I discovered the recipe — thanks, Carol!) They’re really, […]
10/10/08 at 5:06 am
[…] Crumiri from Cream Puffs in Venice […]
11/1/09 at 7:24 pm
Best recipe ever!!